Over the airport the sky yawns wide, grey-brown with rainclouds gently weeping. As we land from Mumbai, this wide prospect dismays me. Has Calcutta grown up too?
But itâs the same old diesel-stinking, sunshine-yellow Ambassador taxi that carries Ma and Mohan and me cross-town. The same old double-decker buses â saggy-tired, wheezy-breathed, precariously lopsided â that block our view. The same old cycle-rickshaws â with their fragile plywood-and-rusted-nails frames, and seats half as wide as a piano seat, each vehicle yclept a two-seater â that struggle behind us.
Mumbaiâs changing so fast I can see it, even though I live there. And thatâs exciting. But Calcutta is still the perfect holiday-spot.
Through the windshield and windows, Ma scrutinises her city. The taxi driver updates her. Eight-year-old Mohan gazes out the other window. I took the window seat on the flight, but Iâll make it up to him. I always make Mohan fill the bit-parts in my show. This time Iâll give him a choice. Surely I can find someone else.
I donât know what show Iâll stage this summer. Iâve already done a play, canât do that again. Perhaps if we were staying with Paâs side of the family â theyâve not seen my play. My very own adaptation of Julius Caesar, with me as Caesar and Antony. But no, I wouldnât repeat it even then. Repetition bores me. Should I adapt and memorise a new play? Thatâs a lot of work. Maâs family applaud anything I do.
Fronting Chhordiâs lane, last yearâs construction site still gapes, skeleton-cheeked, its sand-mounds and gravel-piles now part of the roadâs fabric. For our last visit before we move to Boston for Paâs new job, Chhordi has marshalled the tribe full strength: as we crawl up the cul-de-sac, aunts and cousins lean into the first-storey enclosed balconyâs butter-yellow cage, frantically waving. They run downstairs, fighting with Ma to pay the driver and to carry our suitcases upstairs. I cling to my backpack. This hospitality, verging on violence, frightens me always.
Weâve sat all day â cab, flight, cab â but Maâs relatives insist we must be exhausted, and pile us into baths â the waterâs yellow from iron, and pungent with chlorine â and make us rest, around the black dining table under the loquacious, arthritic ceiling fan, before confronting us with our first challenge: mounds of shingara and roshogolla. Deep-fried potato-stuffed dumplings, and syrup-drenched milk-sweets. Doctorâs orders after our arduous day.
A new maid bustles upstairs with these evening snacks, and then in from the kitchen with plates â white china plates, for today is special. Chhordi always has a maid-in-residence, a new one every year or two. I catch her name: Maya. She looks barely older than me. All my cousins are younger than me â Mohanâs age, easy to bully into bit-parts â but this year I may have a proper playmate. Bossing kids gets dull fast.
âAnd, shona?â Chhordi folds my hands into the lap of her white, super-soft widowâs cotton sari. âHow dâyou feel about spending your last summer in India with us old fogies?â I murmur that Iâm enjoying myself, and that weâll keep visiting. âGod grant I may live to see you again!â Sixty-three-year-old Chhordi speaks with her generationâs matter-of-fact sentimentality. Besides my grandma, Chhordi has lost four siblings, two of them in childhood. Sheâs one of five who remain.
Before we left Calcutta, Chhordi was my favourite storyteller. Twinkle-eyed, hoarse-voiced, she recounts again her tomboy mango-grove adventures in her fatherâs estate, in what is now Bangladesh â before the Partition of Bengal displaced the family, each fleeing the bloodbath carrying or wearing what she could. The same old stories. I nod politely, but resolve that I will never repeat a performance.
In Chhordiâs round, dark-skinned face, behind her bifocals, her eyes, no longer black, harden as Maya stacks the empty plates to carry them back. âTake them two at a time, canât you? Why dâyou have to be so lazy?â
âYes, Chhordi.â Per custom, Maya addresses Chhordi as if she were her kin.
âAll these girls are the same,â mutters Patu Mashi, thirty-three, Chhordiâs only child: in English my sort-of-aunt, in Bengali just âaunt.â âTheir hands are here, their minds are in the cinema-hall.â Mashi is plump and dark, but has good features: straight nose, big eyes, arched eyebrows plucked overthin to sharpen her face, and plump lower lip. Her upper lip, however, looks pinched, underlining her philtrum. But her sneer relaxes as she turns from Maya to me. She doesnât know me as well. She asks me how Paâs doing â heâs fine, busy winding up business â and whether Iâm excited about Boston. I simper and prevaricate. How dâyou know how to feel about change?
Meanwhile Chhordiâs telling the grownups, âWe only recruit village girls since that incident.â The grownups clear their throats and study their white china gilt-edged teacups, side-eying us children. I know this story. Too hot to sleep under the nylon mosquito net, I eavesdropped on it three summers ago. All sheâd done, this infamous maid, was elope with a boy. âBut even these simple girls get spoiled by the metropolis. We keep having to let them go.â
The grownups settle into an eveningâs gossip about friendsâ and familyâs illnesses, domestic blowups and financial troubles. I struggle to stay awake. The windows were closed at dusk against mosquitoes. The humid July heat is a never-ending blow between my eyes. And here thereâs no AC.
Iâm awoken by a wetness on my big toe. Peering under Chhordiâs best tablecloth, I find that another auntâs baby has crawled out of the bedroom, under the table, and â toyless on this visit â is exploring my foot with her mouth and with now her tiny, razor-nailed fists.
An outcry. A fuss. The baby, plucked screaming from her play, is laboriously pacified.
Mohanâs sleepy, too, and heâs the mosquitoesâ favourite target â one or two always sneak in. Miming Chhordi, an expert mosquito-slayer, Mohan claps his hands at his tormentors, studies his palms to check for a kill, nil, follows the agile long-legged droners with his food-and-heat-drugged eyes, and jerks them away from his ears. Watching Mohan play with the mosquitoes keeps me awake.
Chhordi comes to my rescue. âWhat a grownup little girl our Progga has become, sitting so quietly!â Pragya isnât a Bengali name, so Chhordi doesnât bother trying to pronounce it, settling for âProgga.â âAnd how long your hair has grown! Why, youâre a regular beauty!â
I face Chhordi, half-annoyed, half-flattered. Every summer for four weeks, I hear nothing but how wonderful I am. Are my relatives lying or stupid? Sometimes I want to know. For I want to really be wonderful. I want never to wonder whether their applause is merely affectionate. Other times I wish everyone were all praises, and my ambitions were in hell.
Maâs eyes widen, advising caution. âIâm just listening, Chhordi,â I simper. âThese stories are so interesting.â I donât relish lying, so I ham it up, so Chhordi can see my lie if she wants to.
âAha! Your love for gossip comes from your Bengali side.â
This time I ignore Maâs warning glance. âNo, Chhordi. Even in Mumbai, grownups gossip.â
âSurely, surely,â says Chhordi. The whites of her eyes look washed-out too: yellow-tinged, pink-flecked. Never settling on anything, they look either dreamy or wandering. Dreamy, I decide â she looks happy. âBut true gossip â adda â thatâs a patented Bengali skill.â
I draw breath to dispute this; I wonder why, if Chhordi wants to appropriate something for Bengalis, she wants to appropriate gossip. But Chhordi has a fit of coughing. I pat her back, reach for her inhaler and stand solicitous. Wet-eyed she pats my hand.
Playing at being domesticated, and demurring at praise for my school performance and politeness and mere existence, has dulled by dinner. Chhordi, whoâs sat down last â after everyone else has been plied with third helpings of a dozen dishes â finally finishes her meal-ending sweet mango chutney. I spring into action. I seize her plate and dash kitchenwards over Mashiâs protests not to âstrain myselfâ.
âShe really has grown up,â Chhordi tells Ma.
Maya sits on the grey stone kitchen floor, eating, from a dented steel plate, a mound of white rice, with tiny servings of the vegetable and fish side-dishes and no serving at all of the chilli chicken. Sheâs rising to see if I want anything. Forestalling her, I squat opposite, and roll my eyes towards the fusspots Iâve escaped.
âHello! Iâm Pragya.â
She tries to pronounce âPragyaâ; she canât; we laugh. Iâm touched: sheâs the only one thatâs tried. She makes me teach her. Thereâs no âgyâ in Bengali, but she manages.
âI came thirteen weeks ago,â Maya whispers. âIâm from a village near Malda, where your mezdi lives.â Thatâs one of Chhordiâs older sisters, who visits seldom, but rings often. âMy village is fifteen kilometres from Malda by the bus that leaves twice a day, except Sunday, when itâs only once a day.â
âThirteen weeks ago, thatâs⊠three months,â I venture. âYou must be good at maths.â
âNo,â says Maya. âOnly Iâve been counting because they might let me visit home in another thirteen weeks.â
âOh.â I pause, sympathetic.
But sheâs not wistful; she continues chatting. âHow old are you?â
âTwelve.â
âIâll be sixteen next month. Dâyou only have one brother? No sisters?â
âLess talking, more working, Maya!â Chhordiâs stentorian voice knocks at the kitchen door. Then, coaxing, âProgga, darling, wonât you come sit with us?â
Iâve found my summerâs friend, my companion for my last show before we leave India. Obediently I rejoin the drone of grownups and mosquitoes.
Some of Chhordiâs other guests spend the weekend before dispersing to their homes across Calcutta. Drowsing, I listen to their droning. It hasnât rained in days. The air in my nostrils is water, the blood in my veins sludge. The first-storey rooms overlook neighboursâ walls, which shields them from the sun but also from the breeze. Monday morning, after fighting my sheets all night, I cool my back on the balconyâs stone floor. When I roll over to do my front, the sun streams in. I drag myself up to the roof. The sun only peeped out to displace me â now itâs ducked behind shapeless grey clouds.
The kitchen sink is small, so Mayaâs carried the washtub piled with dishes to the roof, and squats washing them at the water-tap built into the cement water tank. Cotton saris, starched stiff, hang from the iron clotheslines. Maya looks grim; I wait for her to finish work; her face relaxes. Iâd be angry too, doing other peopleâs dishes. In the tankâs shadow, with a breath of breeze, the heat is bearable. She lays out the dishes to dry.
âMashi says you stage a new show every year.â Mayaâs voice is high-pitched and coaxing. âWhatâll you do this year?â
âIâve not decided.â A bright idea: let Maya decide. âWell, I could do a play. But I did it last year, and itâs in EnglishâŠâ Mayaâs waiting; I plunge onwards. âOr I could recite the first chapter of the Iliad, but thatâs in Ancient Greek, and nobody understands that, though it sounds beautifulâŠâ Maya looks impressed, but still expectant. Perfect. âOr I could write some poetry and read it out, but thatâs also in English. Or I could dance kathakâ’
âDo that!â
âI donât dance very well,â I explain, alarmed. âPlus, theyâve already seen that years ago.â And Iâve learned no more since then: for you have to dance barefoot, and it hurts, so I quit. âOrâ â I wait for her to lay out the last bowl, and face me â âI could do a magic-show.â
âYes.â Maya claps. âDo magic!â
âAlright!â
âYour Chhordi and Mashi went to see P. C. Sarkarâ â Indiaâs one big magician, pride of Bengal â âand I couldnât go because somebody had to stay home.â Ever since Chhorda died, theyâre wary of burglars: in this houseful of women someone must be home always, and the lights on. âI was so disappointed I wept all evening.â
âWell, Iâm just a beginner. Donât expect anything fancy!â
âNo, Mashi says your shows are splendid. She says youâre a role-model, so talented and obedientâ’
âObedientâ snaps me out of the trance I was falling into. âTheyâre silly. They praise me for the silliest things. Just for sitting still and listening, or not cutting my hair. I wonder if they think Iâm stupid.â
âRubbish!â Maya mimes my pose, half-lying, legs stretched out. Her readymade, overlarge salwar-kameez of flowered cotton â minus dupatta, since sheâs indoors â canât disguise her slender, shapely figure. Maya has sparkling black eyes, curving cheeks, a pert chin, and a childlike vivacity that animates her prettiness into beauty. âYour relatives only see you once a year, and they donât know you well enough to really talk about anything. But they love you. Thatâs why they say nice things. Not because theyâre stupid, or you are.â
âYe-ah.â Weâve decided my show for this year, but ambivalence about my relativesâ unconditional applause swamps me again.
Finding a new hobby is, I imagine, like falling in love, only less silly, since a hobby is something you can take charge of. Every hobbyâs fun at first, quick and easy, and I want to stay up all night doing it. Then I encounter my first obstacle, and then it becomes a chore, and getting up in the morning is boring again. And then I must choose: whether to persist, or to try something new. And thereâs no end of new hobbies, a pile of glittering toys.
No matter. Before my family audience I can keep staging a new show every summer. Iâve years to choose whether, someday, I want another audience. Big, strange, cold, honest. They will want one thing, and want it done well.
âI wish I were talented.â Maya follows an eagle across the sky.
The last thing I want is for Maya to misappraise me too. But Iâve not the heart to disillusion her, to confess that Iâm a jack-of-all-trades. Rushing to change the subject, I ask, âWhat do you want to do?â Next moment I could bite my tongue out.
Maya doesnât mind. She giggles and wonât tell. I make her. âA beautician,â she murmurs.
Iâm about to snigger. Beautician isnât a respectable occupation. Then I realise this opinion comes from the snobbish, gossipy grownups downstairs. âThatâs wonderful,â I insist.
âYou donât think itâs silly?â she says shyly.
ââcourse not! Now, how does one train to be a beautician?â
âI donât know, really⊠I guess Iâll need to learn some English. And maybe thereâre training courses. Or maybe I just practise hair-cutting and brow-plucking by myself.â
âSplendid!â I jump up. âLetâs start.â
âWhat?â Maya sits up. Lounging has undone her bun; her curls straggle across her cheeks.
âIâll teach you English. Thatâll help you with beauticianing. And that way you can also be my magic-show assistant. If you want to.â Itâd be nice to do a show with someone new, with someone who wants to be there. âYou just have to hand things about and say a few English phrases.â
âYes!â Now sheâs on her feet too, clasping my hands.
âAnd you can cut my hair and pluck my brows for beautician practice.â
âRubbish!â Scared, she lets me go. âChildren donât get their brows pluckedâ’
ââI donât mindâ’
ââand your hairâs already short.â
I suppress my irritation. Sheâs only a village-girl, with the same antiquated notions as the fogies downstairs. âI want it shorter⊠No listen, I cut my own hair whenever it drops below my shoulders. Ma shouts every time, for she says girls should have long hair. But thatâs old-fashioned⊠Dâyou really want to become a beautician? Or are you just playing?â
Maya looks excited and scared. She looks how I feel when Iâm facing a new hobby. âYes,â she says. âI do.â
I barely know her, but I could hug her. I restrain the impulse. Iâm going to teach her, and a teacher must keep her dignity. âThen you canât be old-fashioned. Short cuts are in.â
âBut cutting your hair?â Maya surveys my face, trying out various haircuts by holding swatches this way and that. âI do think some short hairstyles are nice. Even some Bollywood actresses have short cuts now⊠But Chhordi will scold me awfully!â
âNo. Cut a half-centimetre every day. And pluck five eyebrow-hairs every day, per side. That way nobody will notice.â
Maya gapes at my sneakiness, then laughs, and jumps back onboard.
In my notebook â which contains my Ancient Greek, then my Julius Caesar adaptation, then two blank pages for this summerâs magic-show programme â I begin teaching Maya English. I write out the alphabet. Maya recites her ABCs right at the fourth try â except she calls S âesh,â V âbee,â and Z âjed,â for Bengali doesnât have these phonemes. She also calls Q âkwee,â which puzzles me, for Bengali does have all the phonemes for Q.
Remembering sheâll probably only need spoken English, I shut my notebook and teach her the numbers one to ten, Good Morning afternoon and night, Hello Welcome Thank you and Please. These phrases are hard, for no Bengali says good morning unless theyâre being funny, or thank you unless theyâre being rude.
Mayaâs progress delights me. Besides Hello and Tata, English is as foreign to her as Ancient Greek was to me. But sheâs learning a new language faster than I did. Envy stings me. I know just how to soothe it. Nobody taught me Ancient Greek, whereas I must be doing a splendid job teaching Maya English. Shall I make Maya my show this year? Thatâd be worth applauding.
Next: haircutting practice. Under the overcast sky, mynahs shrilling, sparrows chirruping â thereâre still sparrows in Calcutta, slow, kind Calcutta â the comb massaging my scalp, the rusted iron scissors sticking in my hair, the metalâs reluctance rousing Maya to overcome her own, I almost fall asleep.
âMa-ya!â Chhordiâs voice awakens me, startles Maya and almost sends the scissor-ends into my eye. Maya dashes to the balustrade and casts the hair-clippings overboard. Then she darts towards the dried laundry.
âWipe your hands down first,â I hiss, brushing my shoulders clear. âHair sticks.â She scrubs her hands on her hips. I help her pluck the saris free, drape the stiff lengths around her shoulders, then run to help Chhordi upstairs.
Chhordi leans on me. At each step she fetches up her left leg. Then, trembling and arcing sideways, her stiff-kneed right, onto the same step. Then a pause for breath. Then repeat.
Upstairs at last, Chhordi surveys the laundry and dishes. Theyâre just satisfactory, nothing to talk about. She scolds Maya for forgetting to come sort rice downstairs. The rice and lentils from the grocers are full of grain-sized pebbles; they must be sorted for every weekâs cooking; today was sorting day, and âmy poor mother,â says Chhordi, had to help instead.
Maya hangs her head. I wink at her, but she looks sincerely ashamed. I picture Ma, bored stiff, begging to help. Maâs always wanting a vacation, but never really taking one. I watch Maya head downstairs with half the laundry, hang-headed. Whatâs the fuss? Maya isnât a slave, and Chhordi has hands too, and 63 isnât so very old.
I lean beside Chhordi on the balustrade. The cul-de-sac is middle-class, but the back of Chhordiâs house overlooks craftsmenâs cottages and kitchen-gardens. âCan you name these plants, shona?â Shona is gold: a unisex endearment. Bengali is an unsexual language; there isnât even âheâ or âshe.â But there is âgirlâ â and girls are to grow their hair long and beautiful, but to keep it up and hidden always.
âThatâs papaya,â I reply. âAnd thatâs spinach.â
âYes! Youâre so smart.â Chhordi takes my hand. Now I feel how rough it is, stiff and calloused. And sheâs still wheezing from the stair-climbing. Reluctantly I grant that sheâs earned the right to relax.
âAnd thatâs banana, and thatâs coconut,â I continue.
âGood!â As if half the trees in India werenât bananas and coconuts.
But then what I call âdatepalmâ proves to be betelnut â I explain that weâve neither betelnut nor datepalm back home â and what I call âguavaâ proves mango. Chhordi corrects my mistakes, laughing. Her laugh becomes a hacking cough, which she eases with rolling, rhythmic moaning, as one might rock a child. I prepare to run for her inhaler. She seizes my wrist and pats it, keeping me by her, managing her cough with pranayama breathing. Chhordi treats medication as a last resort. Mayaâs come back for the other half of the laundry, but Chhordi redirects my attention to the greenery.
Farming is one of my longest-running hobbies. On our balcony in Mumbai, I grew a batch of tomatoes in tubs: tiny and tart, but fresh and mine. But the second batch got blossom-end rot, and I discovered video games. Now, in the gloaming, I make Chhordi name every plant in sight. I commit the information to memory â forgetting to wonder where, in Boston, Iâll see papaya trees and betelnuts.
A cuckoo, invisible, Ă la Wordsworth, amid the greenery, breaks into a resonant solo. He warms up with a dozen rapid-fire rising scales, then issues into the twilight one long, coaxing, inquisitive note. He waits for a mate to respond. The midnight-blue silence, dispersed by his call, regathers, abuzz with mosquitoes and crickets. He repeats his call. Still silence. His questioning notes race higher and faster until, his sweet voice broken, he assaults the world ceaselessly, no longer pausing for reply.
Chhordi sings back to him. A poor imitation, but he falls for it, directing his desperation towards us. I try whistling at him. But whistling is one skill that eludes me.
âWe call him the mad cuckoo,â says Chhordi. âEndlessly he calls, all through the night, for a mate he never finds⊠The mosquitoes are biting. Come downstairs, shona. Maya, close the door behind you. The kitchen-counter needs washing. Properly. Last time you left dirt piled in the corners.â
My magic-show preparations donât take long. Iâm no good at (didnât want to practise) sleight-of-hand, so I rely on mechanical tricks. A shoebox, paper-covered and painted â painting was my first hobby â becomes the mindreading device for my grand finale. My programme finalised, my patter scripted, barred from going out alone â âyouâll get lost, shonaâ â I wander the stuffy stone-floored house, looking for fun.
I sneeze at Mashiâs dumbbell-sized, microscopic-font college history textbooks. I watch Mohan amusing himself endlessly with Mashiâs old Lego set. They call Mohan pigeon, meaning peaceful. I wonder if heâs a little slow â I tired of Lego years ago.
For a change, Mashi takes me to work, my hand grasped in hers. âHave you ever ridden a Calcutta bus?â
âYes, years ago. And Iâve been on Mumbai trains too, so I know itâs crowded.â
âYouâve no idea how crowded! If you get an itch â say, in your chin â thereâs no room to lift your hand to scratch yourself, for youâre packed in like sliced bread. So, what dâyou do?â I look up. Eyes laughing, Mashi draws out my suspense. âYou just rub yourself on your neighbourâs shoulder.â She makes like a cow rubbing her chin on a fence. Torn between giggling and dignified silence, I chortle.
But in the bus, staring at the wide back of a woman in a low-cut blouse, sure enough, I feel my forehead inexplicably itching, and sure enough, I canât free my hands. Sternly I tell myself Iâm just playing at itching. But then my itch isnât in my chin, itâs in my forehead: surely that means itâs real? Before I can decide whether my itch is real, Iâm rubbing my forehead on the strangerâs back, like a bull headbutting a red flag. The wide-backed woman spins furiously around â where did she find the room? â but, when she sees itâs just a girl, smiles and nods. Ostentatiously, with my hand no longer trapped, I scratch my forehead no longer itchy.
Mashi works in the West Bengal Electrical Corporation. Her father was a manager here; after his sudden death, they awarded her a clerical job. Work is slow. She tells me again the story of his death. Chhordi, Chhorda and Mashi were on their first holiday in years; he had a stroke; he never regained consciousness.
Tears stand in her eyes. I weep, too. Her lips quiver and briefly she looks like a child, open and baffled. Then someone brings her a file. She wipes her kohled eyes carefully and prims her lips. As she examines the file, never have her overplucked eyebrows looked more poised, her philtrum more forbidding. And thatâs when, from the tears weâve shared, the truth flashes at me. Mashiâs not cold, sheâs too warm: thus the sneer. I resolve to get to know my aunt better in the fortnight that remains.
But after the rice-heavy lunch, in the cool high-ceilinged room, with fans hanging from long steel rods, I doze the afternoon away at her desk. At 5.30pm I resurface, ill-tempered from day-sleep, my resolution left behind on sleepâs ocean-floor.
Next, Mama, Maâs younger brother, takes his turn to amuse us â or me, since Mohan inexplicably sleeps through the nights. Mama arrives early, before work one morning. Heâs an engineer at the Electrical Corporation. In 1999, the public sector is West Bengalâs main employer.
Mama carries a sunshine-yellow kite. âAt dawn there was a hint of breeze,â he explains.
But the hint has vanished. I run from end to end of the balcony, flinging the kite skywards. It refuses to fly. âNever mind,â says Mama, mopping his brow. âMaybe another day. Youâre drenched, poor child. Go take a bath.â I do. But he must go, dewy-browed, to work: repairing the transformers, which break down like clockwork.
I give up seeking other entertainment. Ignoring my relativesâ hints (would-be questions) about my spending a lot of time with âthat silly girl,â I haunt Maya.
Chhordi scolded her roundly this morning for leaving the teapot unattended, overbrewing. But it was Chhordi whoâd called her away to sweep the bathroom. Mayaâs been tightlipped all morning. Now, leaning over the back balustrade, chattering about Chhordiâs humbler neighbours, her face relaxes. âThis,â indicating the house with betelnuts and mango â or was it guava? â âis a potterâs.â
âOh.â That explains the rows of terracotta plant pots. Somehow the backside neighbours never enter the grownupsâ adda. When Chhordi was naming trees, she didnât acknowledge the houses they surround. âPottery sounds fun. I wonder if heâd let us practise on his wheel.â
Into the midmorning from the potterâs two-room flat-roofed cement cottage erupts a voice. No, itâs a duet, the two voices similar in pitch: a manâs shriek and a womanâs hoarse alto. Theyâre quarrelling; the womanâs monopolising; the man canât get a word in edgewise. But it all sounds gibberish.
âBengali?â
Maya giggles. âYes! Bangal.â Thatâs the dialect they speak over the border, in Bangladesh. âCanât you understand it? Your Chhordiâs family came from Barishal.â
âWell, I didnât⊠Whatâre they arguing about?â
âSheâs calling him lazy, and heâs inviting her to walk out.â
âOh!â Should we call off afternoon English? Iâve never witnessed a real-life breakup. âFinally, something exciting.â I look around for a chair, then frown with concentration, turning my head for a better listen.
âOh, no,â Maya laughs. âTheyâre always fighting. Itâs just for fun. They get their anger out and go on living happily together.â
âThatâs silly! They should just get a divorce and go their own ways and be actually happy.â
âYe-ahâŠâ
Now with Mayaâs ears I hear the relish in the womanâs voice, the husbandâs lavish melodrama as he curses his own simplemindedness. Under the papaya treesâ tiered umbrella of hand-shaped leaves stands their ten-year-old, a toddler on her hip, playing mother. She puts him down to fill a steel bucket at the hand-pumped borewell standing in a little courtyard: the stone water-eroded, slippery-smooth, the water-stagnant edges mossy. Abandoned, the toddlerâs lip trembles. He soothes himself cry-humming, windmilling his arms towards mother-sister.
In Mayaâs free hour before lunch prep, we have our English lesson. How dâyou do? Very well, thank you. I fancy going at lessons all night. In this heat I canât sleep, so I imagine Maya canât either. And never has hobby of mine raced so smoothly forwards. But Mayaâs interest flags, so I adjourn school.
We sit in the shade eating dried tamarind. Maya tempers hers with salt. I tell her that defeats the point. She scrunches up her face watching me bite into a whole pod saltless. Truth be told, the acid has flayed my tongue, and when I bite into solid food later, my teeth will shiver. But itâs worth all that to watch Maya admiring â and in this admiration there can be no feigning â my tart resistance.
Out come the blotched mirror and iron scissors. The ironâs all rust: this pairâs a spare, which Chhordiâs forgotten and Mayaâs reclaimed. Tetanus? I think Iâm vaccinated. Anyhow, if I did fall ill, the hospital might have air-conditioning. Have you ever been so hot, so long, you canât think of anything but how to get cool, just for an hour?
I sit against the water tank, legs outspread. Maya sits on her knees facing me. First, she trims my hair. I told her a half-centimetre is about as tall as my thumbnail, so she measures my hair with my thumbnail. Yesterday I discovered, by Mashiâs old primary-school geometry ruler, that my thumbnailâs actually a whole centimetre. Maya would be upset; I donât tell her. Anyway, I want my hair short, and nobodyâs noticed.
Mayaâs worked out how to make the scissors cut. Theyâre long, but she makes short snips, at an acute angle, with the bladesâ middles. Sharp and smooth, snip-snip, and with the triple potion of heat, boredom, and firm comb-teeth and light fingers on my scalp, I doze. The sound of Mayaâs heels, bounding to throw my hair overboard, awakens me.
Next, Maya tries on fake hairstyles. With hairclips â her own, plus a few borrowed from Mashi, a motley crew â she fastens my hair this way and that. She makes it look like Iâve got a bun. I marvel but shake my head. âNo long hair for me, please, thank you,â I say slowly in English.
Maya studies my lips, head on one side, and smiles. I demand a translation. âI donât want long hair?â Maya offers.
âYou already knew that. Literal translation?â
She gives it to me. I grunt, withholding excess admiration. Next, Maya parts my hair over my left ear, makes it poufy over my crown, and pins it back at my nape.
She moves the mirror in my hand, this way and that, giving me a tour, backside not included. âYou like this short cut?â
âVery nice work, it looks good, but too stylish for me,â I say in Bengali.
Maya laughs. âShouldnât I urge my clients to be as stylish as possible?â
I donât know, but Iâm teacher, and teacher must always have answer. âI think you should do what the client wants.â
Mayaâs still assessing and adjusting my hairstyle, quick-eyed, light-fingered. âEven if the clientâs as unstylish as you?â
âThat wonât happen, for Iâve never been to a beauty parlour.â
Maya sits back on her haunches, perplexed. âBut if I give a client a haircut they want, but that doesnât look good, they wonât come back.â
Itâs too hot to sit. I lie down, head raised on hands to protect my hairstyle. It looks good, and I wish I could show it off downstairs, but theyâd scold Maya. âWell, your supervisor will tell you what to do⊠You know, Ma says parlours sell every client the most expensive things. Dyeings, straightenings, serums and whatnots. Thatâs what youâll probably be doing.â
âBut thatâs awful,â Maya cries. âShouldnât I find out what each client wants?â
âHa! You just said you wanted to override unstylish clients.â
âHmm!â Maya lies down beside me. âI hadnât thought about that â do I work for the client or my employer?â
I turn. Her wide face is pinched with worry. âItâs hard isnât it?â I sympathise. âPicking one thing, and accepting all the good and bad about it? And all the while youâre looking across at another job, thinking that looks all smooth.â
âI guess⊠But Iâve never felt that way about my job.â I glance at her, surprised. âI mean Iâve never thought about my job at all, Iâve just done it. I never realised I had options. The beauty parlour was just a daydream, till now.â
Unease accelerates my heart. I pat her arm. âWeâll get you the job you want. Donât worry.â But I donât know if I can, and too late I wonder if this was the right thing to do. Iâm relieved when Chhordi calls âMa-ya!â
Maya and I gather the laundry and draw out the folds of sari stuck together with rice-starch. Standing twenty feet apart we have a nice tug-of-war. But we canât be too rough, lest the starch-glued fabric rip. Maya will iron out the small creases tonight, when everyoneâs in bed, the dining-room floor cleared. We fold the laundry and stack the dried dishes. We lean over the balustrade. Maya quizzes me about the plant-names Chhordi taught me. Iâve already forgotten.
Up here itâs cooler, almost cool as the day yellows. Lying on our backs we watch the grey day turn a faint, even yellow, our arms and legs outspread. For it still hasnât rained, and our body heat, humidity-drugged, refuses to travel forth: it lingers heavy on our skins, a blanket unsheddable. Our sweat doesnât cool us, only prickles us, as annoyed as we are. Maya, who complains about the heat only when I do, distracts me with stories about her family.
âIâve two older sisters, then me, then another sister. And then finally my parents had a son. Heâs only ten.â Her sisters Maya calls plain Lokkhi, Dugga, and Moushumi â but her brother wades in nicknames. Shona, moti, chandermookh: sun, pearl, moonface. âLokkhi got married three years ago, and Dugga last year, and soon itâll be my turn.â
Mayaâs parents farm a quarter-acre, mostly rice and greens. To make ends meet, theyâre also selling water from a borewell. All over the farm districts, Maya says, all the water has become saline, so theyâre digging, digging deeper into the good earthâs bowels.
âWhat did your older sisters do before they got married?â
âLokkhi helped out around the farm. She was bright, so she also took tuitions for kids. Dugga got a job like mine, in Malda. When there was enough money for their dowry, and when my parents found a boy, they came home to get married. Theyâre both settled near home, and theyâve already got kids⊠Moushumi wants to go to college, but my parents are saving for my dowry and for Shonaâs college⊠Though Shonaâs quite lazy!â Maya laughs. Even her brotherâs flaws arenât flaws. âI send all my money home, we all do, and I tell them to use it for Moushumi. Sheâs bright, too, she can get a scholarship soon⊠As for saving for my dowry â I do want to marry, but not straightaway.â
ââcourse not. Sixteenâs too young⊠Dâyou send all your money home?â
âI get board and lodging here, so what do I need money for?â
âHow much dâyou get?â
âRs. 3000 a month.â
âMa-ya!â Chhordi calls.
âShit! Grocery shopping!â Remembering, Maya slaps her forehead and clatters downstairs.
I lie stunned. In Mumbai, our maid only comes an hour a day, to mop and do dishes: for that she gets Rs. 3000. Well, but in Mumbai you canât get ten shingara for Rs. 20. So maybe Mayaâs salary is fair. But then I remember Pa gets Rs. 60,000 for sitting in an AC office all day. Pa has a degree, but I suspect Pa couldnâtâve learned English as fast as Mayaâs learning it â if he hadnât already learned it in school.
Stalled in my armchair appraisals of the fair wages of labour, I yawn at a glossy black raven intelligently tilting his head at me from the balustrade.
Next afternoon, as Mayaâs pouring the rice from newspaper packets into glass jars, Chhordi counts the change Mayaâs brought back from the shops. Itâs ten rupees short. Thereâre recounts, questions, explanations, protests and tears. âTry to remember where you left it,â concludes Chhordi, sternly â refraining from adding âthief,â perhaps only because weâre company.
Afterwards, I sneak upstairs. In the mosquito-whining, starless night squats Maya, sobbing quietly, doing another herculean load of dishes.
âTo accuse me of stealing,â she cries, âAnd a piddling ten rupees!â I squat by her, my arm around her shoulder, the dishwater lapping our feet. âIâll run away!â she cries. âIâll leave your Chhordi and Mashi, and my parents too. Iâll wait for this monthâs salary, and Iâll keep it all for myself, and Iâll take a train â somewhere!â
âYes, you should. But hush, now, weâll plan it out properly later. Donât cry. Your snotâs dribbling into your mouth â and itâs salty, isnât it?â
Curiously Maya licks her snot, screws up her face, wipes her tongue on her wrist, and laughs. Dismayed, I remember itâs from Chhordi, years ago â after she pulled out a milk-tooth that Iâd nursed, dangling by a flesh-thread, all week â that I learned this diversionary tactic. Well, stolen though this trick be from our enemy, it works on my friend.
Afterwards, sedated by her own tears, eyes swollen, but face peaceful, Maya says: âYouâre the only person whoâs ever believed in my dream⊠I mean I only told one other person, and she scolded me, so I never told anybody else.â Under me the stone is cool now, the breeze gentle. If only theyâd let us sleep up here. The mosquitoes deny us the night.
âForget them, Maya. We only get one life. We must follow our dreams.â This sounds weak, and Maya only hmms, so I add, âYou know what you want to do. Dâyou know how much I envy you that?â
âYou envy me!â
âYes. I donât know yet what I want to do.â I will soon, of course. Someday. âYou should run away⊠Perhaps we can both run away.â
âWhat!â Maya laughs. âBut youâre going abroad. Youâll have so much fun!â
âIâm not sure I want to go. Maybe I wonât make friends, maybe Iâll be bad at school, maybe I wonât understand the accent⊠Listen, you know all about farming, donât you?â Maya nods tentatively. âWell, we can start our own farm!â I sit up. Suddenly I see it all before me. âYes! Youâll teach me farming, and Iâll teach you English. Thatâll be useful to, uh, well, get better prices. People donât cheat you if you speak English⊠And weâll do exactly what we want!â
Maya hesitates. I make allowances: naturally a person canât jump into a brand-new scheme right after theyâve been crying. I fetch the railway timetables and an atlas.
Maya warms up to our project. By the flickering yellow roof light, we scrutinise the map for a good riverside place to buy some farmland. Iâll borrow the money from Pa. How much can a wee plot cost, and how hard can growing wee tomatoes be? We design a house with my writing room facing east, and Mayaâs beauty parlour facing the street.
Itâs the most awake Iâve felt all summer. Afterwards I realise I even forgot the heat.
Afternoon by afternoon, my brows grow imperceptibly thinner, my hair shorter. Pa, seeing me back home after a month, might notice, but Pa doesnât care about such silly things. I make sure to sit with the grownups every night at adda, playing at adulthood, half-hoping theyâll notice, relieved that they donât. Iâve delivered Caesarâs speeches, and done portraits of Napoleon â but, minus swords and guns, my own revolutions are sneaky.
Mayaâs English progresses too. We rehearse the lines sheâll say when introducing tricks and passing items around the audience. Aided by Mashiâs stack of Femina magazines, we continue learning hairstyling lingo.
âSheâd scold me no end if she found me with this,â Maya giggles. âShe says such things turn girlsâ heads.â
âSheâd scold me too⊠I donât understand grownups. They want me to grow my hair, and use a mask for my pimples â but simultaneously I must pretend not to care about my appearance. Until a certain age. And then suddenly one day spend thousands of rupees on a bridal makeover. Ugh! No use puzzling over those old fogies.â Iâve made another misstep quoting the price of bridal makeovers, so I blurt, âTranslate âHeâs a good boy and his sisterâs a bad girl.ââ I coo âgood,â and snap âbad.â Iâll phase out these cues; for now, they make us laugh.
Maya translates, haltingly but accurately, this and a few other sentences I invent. Impressed, I propose to teach her to write English. That way, we can stay in touch. For I canât write Bengali. Maya didnât learn English in her state-board school, and I learned neither Bengali or Punjabi in my international-board school. I can speak my parentsâ mother-tongues, but canât read them.
âMe, write English!â Maya giggles, then looks sad.
Iâm hurt. Does she doubt my pedagogical skills, or my loyalty? âWe are going to stay in touch, arenât we?â
âOf course,â says Maya. âBut, I mean, I donât even know where Iâll be next yearâŠâ
âThatâs why you should learn to write, then it wonât matter where we are.â But I shelve this project. Weâve only ten days left: probably too little time. If only Iâd started the day I arrived! Teaching an almost-grownup spoken and written English in four weeks â would that have been a world record? I eye my promising pupil, hope and uncertainty tussling.
âWhatâre you staring at?â
Friendly stars dance in her night-black eyes. She told me, and sheâs letting me help her. If I can tell anyone, itâs her. Teacherâs dignity be damned. âI donât know what I want to do with my life,â I blurt. âI do well in school, and my teachers say Iâm promising, but⊠Everything I try is fun at first, then it gets hard. I canât choose one thing, I feel scared. What if I choose wrong?â
âYes, that is scary,â says Maya. âItâs like choosing who youâre going to spend your life with. At least youâre going to have a choice about your career. My parents are probably already looking for grooms for me.â
âHmmâŠâ I disapprove of child marriage, but Maya hasnât promised to stay in touch so I withhold my disapproval. âHow did you decide to become a beautician?â Perhaps thereâs a moment I need to have. If I know Mayaâs, I can look for mine.
Maya still giggles discussing her vocation. I face her steadily; she settles down and hugs her knees: a cosy ball of dreaming. âIn the village, we only had a naapit, who went around every morning shaving menâs beards. The first time I saw a beauty parlour was when Mashi took me, a week after I reached Calcutta. Iâd never seen the metropolis before. Even now, sixteen weeks in, Iâve barely seen more than our neighbourhood⊠Anyway: Mashi was showing me around the various grocers, what item to buy where. I was already feeling dazzled. Then she remembered she had to get her eyebrows threaded for a friendâs wedding. So, we entered the parlour. It was so different from anything Iâve ever seen! Big mirrors, new and clean. Bright lights. Scissors and spray-cans and potions and basins, all clean and shiny. It was a fairyland. And the girls working there are like me. My age, and dark like me, clearly fighting their way up. But they were smartly dressed, and they chattered with their clients so confidently, with English words thrown in. And they stood up straight. And nobody scolded them.â
I watch Maya, wondering if Iâll ever feel about anything as she does about beauticianing. Thatâs when I realise I already do.
âWho did you tell about your dream?â I ask. Maya looks puzzled. âYou said that before me you told someone and they scolded you.â
âOh. Mashi.â
âWhyâd she scold you?â
âShe said it was silly.â
This coincides with my opinion, so Iâm outraged. âHow dare she dismiss your dream! They just want to keep you under their thumb, underpaid and overworked.â I prepare a Marxist lecture to demonstrate my good faith. I think beauty parlours are silly because theyâre girlish; Mashi thinks theyâre silly because sheâs a class oppressor. Surely my view is exonerated.
âNo, sheâs right,â says Maya, drumming her fingers on her ribs. âShe doesnât want me to dream big dreams, then be disappointed.â
âBut why should you be disappointed? You can do anything you want.â
âNo, I canât,â says Maya, gravely but not sadly. Her fingers still; her hands rests on her ribs.
ââcourse you can!â I sit up and stare down into her eyes. I thought she was all cried out, but Chhordiâs scolding has depressed her. âYouâre learning English so fast. No, listen. Iâve never taught anyone before, but I can tell youâre a quick learner. I tried teaching my friends and family Ancient Greek, and none of them even wanted to. And youâve picked up English so fast, youâre so interested in it, though English doesnât sound half as wonderful⊠Learning a language is supposed to be hard for grownups, and youâre almost grown up, but youâre fast. Why on earth canât you become a beautician? People do. People slower than you.â
âYes, people do. Itâs not that I think itâs impossible. But for me it is.â
âWhy? Donât you want to run away?â I laugh. Did I dream the last three weeks? âCome on, after what just happened?â
Mayaâs silent so long Iâm about to shake her impatiently. âI canât leave my family, Pragya-di.â
âDonât call me âdi.â Youâre older than me. Thatâs another class oppression device. Why canât you tell your family you have this dream?â
âThey wouldnât understand it. Theyâd be furious, and then heartbroken.â
I shrug. âThen youâll do without them. If you want to do something, you have to give up something else. Itâs simple.â
Mayaâs still on her back, but her face works unhappily. âIâve nobody but my family. I donât know anyone here. Iâve no savings.â
âOh, money!â I wave. âIâll give you money. No, listen. I save all my pocket-money, for my parents buy me everything I want.â
âPragya-di! Sorry, I mean, Pragya, no di!â She sits up and squeezes my shoulders. âYouâre the best friend Iâve ever had. But I canât take your money.â
âWhy not?â
âI donât know when I could return it.â
âJust take it and go, thatâs what Iâd do, I donât want it back, and anyway how could I track you down?â Iâm about to say â but, remembering, I hold my tongue.
This morning, Chhordi found the âmissingâ ten rupees in her purse. Mashi told her she was getting forgetful. They decided not to tell Maya, for an apology would lower their dignity, and an employer must keep her dignity. All day Iâve wondered whether to tell Maya. But she still hasnât promised to keep in touch, whereas my relatives Iâll see again.
âIf you wonât take my money, then save your own,â I urge. âDonât send everything home. Thatâs your money. Save it, and then â well, you neednât run away, but enroll in a training-course. Some grownups study while theyâre working.â
Maya laughs softly. âIf I told my parents I was keeping back some money to train as a beautician, theyâd order me back and marry me off straightway, and Iâd never see Calcutta again.â She looks wistful, but her face is relaxed again.
Panic grips me. Another thing is slipping from me. But this time itâs more than a hobby. Suddenly I canât stand it anymore. âSo, whatâs your plan?â I demand.
âPlan?â Languidly she disentangles her curls. âNo plan. Iâll just stay here, I guess.â
âNo!â I pound my thigh. âNo⊠This is what you always do. You get upset, then weep a bit, or start making a plan. But then you get this dreamy look on your face â like right now! You look happy, as if youâve already got the thing you want. But you havenât. Youâre like that silly couple quarrelling every day, and then just all normal again. No! You should stay angry, and make proper plans when youâre calm, and carry them out⊠This life here, slaving for these people, who accuse you without proof,â â I still canât bring myself to say âfalselyâ â âthis canât be your life. You only get one life. And youâre bright. Donât tell me you accept this.â
Maya shrugs. âI guess I do accept it now.â
âYou always accepted it,â I accuse, swallowing my tears. âYou were just playing at wanting to be a beautician. Werenât you?â Maya shrugs, but looks so gentle that my own anger dissolves in tears. âThen â give up your fantasy. Kill it!â
âThen Iâd go mad, Pragya-di, and do something awful. If I pretend sometimes that I am a beautician, or can be one someday, that Iâve something all my own â that keeps me happy. Dâyou grudge me that?â
âNo,â I blubber. Suddenly Iâve made up my own mind. Now forgiveness is easy.
We weep. We embrace, drooling snot onto one anotherâs shoulders, for Maya, like me, weeps primarily with her nose. Afterwards we stand drinking, in the soul-deep peace of post-cry, a cool gust that promises, at last, a thunderstorm tonight, relief from this torpor.
The mad cuckoo, smelling on the thunderstorm perhaps his mate at last, starts his song suddenly: like a man awakening from a choking sleep with a sudden snore. Higher and louder, shorter and hoarser, the cuckoo calls. Poor invisible inhabitant of the asylum of his own loneliness.
We laugh at him. Maya sings at him, I try whistling at him, again unsuccessfully, my snot dribbling into my mouth. To our chagrin the thunderstorm passes us by. Another sedentary day, another sleepless night. This time I donât mind it: I turn over my new resolution, watching it concretise.
The magic showâs going well. Chhordiâs gathered the tribe again.
For the grand finale, I request each of my thirty guests to write the name of one famous person, and drop their folded chits into my painted shoebox. Maya returns the shoebox to me. I open it, display thirty folded chits, reach in shut-eyed, declare âJulius Caesar,â open my eyes, and pass the chit to the spectator nearest me. âJulius Caesar,â she reads, and holds the chit up for the audience to see. I open another, declare âNapoleon Bonaparte,â and ditto. Of course, all the chits in the box are Caesars and Napoleons. The audienceâs chits went into the secret compartment under the lid.
For our farewell party, the grownups have allowed light makeup. This morning Maya made up herself and me, eager and experimental, as if she still had her dream. I only smiled: I didnât want to fight on our last day.
Now Maya and I, in our finest clothes, faces lipsticked and shimmer-powdered, bow to our thunderously applauding audience. Is the applause genuine? Would strangers applaud so? This time I donât worry. I hoard the applause. Iâll need it. Iâve made my decision; in its afterglow of wisdom I know that however brightly I may succeed, Iâll never again get applause so enthusiastic.
Collecting plaudits, and saying goodbyes, through Chhordiâs crowded drawing-room, I glimpse the end of another romance. Iâve put up my last magic show. Time slows. In the sudden light of my sense of finality, every moment lingers, long and unbearably meaningful. This meaningfulness mantles me at the end of every yearâs show, like a little death. I half-embrace it, half-escape it. This Sunday morning I feel particularly strong, particularly vulnerable. Iâve put up my last show of any kind.
In the background Maya circulates with trayfuls of experimental hors dâoeuvre thatâre Mashiâs contribution to our party. Theyâre delicious, but too small. Our flightâs at noon, and Ma protested against a seven-course breakfast before our day-long journey.
Afterwards, as Maâs taking leave of her relatives, and Mohanâs allowing his apple cheeks to be pinched and pulled, I bid Maya goodbye. Today we canât get away to the roof; we convene in the kitchen. Iâve rehearsed several versions of my farewell speech. Having got those out, Iâve realised that, momentous as this occasion is, a speech of Act III-Mark Antony proportions wouldnât fit.
âIâve decided what I want to do,â I say. âIâm going to be a writer.â
âOh,â says Maya, her face falling. She spruces it back up. âHow did you decide?â
âIt was the right choice. Itâs the thing Iâm best at. Everyone says so.â This is true, but I put a dozen chits into my shoebox last night, and I pulled out âwriter,â so thatâs why. Iâd put in one âteacherâ chit, the corner folded up so Iâd know it, and Iâd put in two âwriterâs, and when I pulled out âwriterâ I was surprised I didnât feel excited, but I felt relieved, so I know itâs the right choice.
But Maya doesnât need to know. For thereâs no more talk of staying in touch. Sheâs not asked me to learn to write Bengali. Sheâs not given me her address. All I know is that she lives fifteen kilometres from Malda.
âBut the magic-show was so splendid, Pragya-di.â
âYes, but itâs just beginnerâs tricks, Maya. Other peopleâs tricks, not mine⊠Besides, what Iâve staged today is all the magic I know.â
âAnd you donât want to learn more?â
âNot magic, no.â
Maya studies my face, then seems to remember her own face is shimmer-powdered too. She wets her handkerchief for a washcloth, but only wrings it. âSo youâll be a writer⊠But youâll be writing in English.â
âYes.â Gathering my thoughts, I gaze out of the kitchen window. Too late, I realise this is an interesting view, one Iâve left unexplored over many summers. I shake myself focused. âIt was time for me to choose. And writingâs the only thing I can imagine sticking with. Every storyâs like a new romance. Itâs like having a new hobby every monthâŠâ I try this on; it doesnât fit; I shake it off. âOkay, it isnât really. Doing any one thing will be hard. Still, I had to choose, and writingâs what Iâve chosen. I need to grow up.â I need to do the opposite of what youâre doing. I canât tell you that â but I needed to tell you this. Youâre growing up in your own opposite way. Youâll understand.
Slowly unfolding and refolding her wet handkerchief, Maya nods. âYouâll be a good writer. I wonât be able to read your books, but Iâll know.â I donât remind her that sheâs learning English; I donât tell her she must continue. âI have some news, too.â
âOh?â Hope flutters in my heart. Have her parents guessed her dream and offered to free her from maidservanting and saving for her dowry? All my sophistication deserts me; all I can picture is my pocket-money waiting in my backpack to send Maya off.
âI had a letter,â says Maya, âFrom home last night. They want me to go home for a week, to see some bridegrooms theyâve shortlisted⊠I expect Iâll be married this time next year.â
I try to think of something to say. âI hope youâll like one of them. And I hope heâll be good to you. At your wedding you can do your own hair and makeup. Thatâll be fun.â
âYes.â
We embrace. Mashiâs shimmering face-powder rubs off from my chin onto the shoulder of Mayaâs best salwar-kameez: a magenta polyester pseudo-silk that darkens her skin to black coffee.
âLetâs go outside.â Tears streak her shimmer powder. âYour relatives will want you, too.â Lingering in the kitchen, she finally washes her face. During the party the makeup was alright, but for the maid itâs safest to change quickly out of play-clothes.
Chhordi and Mashi have been running around all morning. Now I sit with them, thanking them for their hospitality. How heavy the hours lay these four weeks, as I sat with them at meals, drugged by heat and mosquito-buzzing and white rice! Looking back, I seem to have spent all that time nodding at boring stories, stories Iâd heard a dozen times before. Now, gazing into Chhordiâs eyes, no longer black, not black at all, cloudy and faraway, I canât remember a single one. Chhordiâs eyes are moist. I do my best to weep too. Why is it only now that Iâm noticing her eyes are not quite there? After the ten-rupees incident, when Mashi remarked that Chhordi was getting forgetful, I thought only of the outrage against my friend. All four weeks, Chhordi has been to me only the head of a yawn-dull household, tireless teller of tiresome stories, tormentor of my new friend, my summerâs friend.
Mashi hands Chhordi her morning pills. As Chhordi swallows, a drop of water goes the wrong way. She coughs, and canât stop coughing. Mohan and I thump her back. Sheâs alright soon, waving us off, eyes twinkling. But now itâs I who find myself praying, to a god weâve not been raised to believe in, that Chhordi may live to see our next visit. Next time, I promise, Iâll spend all vacation listening to her stories. Next time there wonât be a Maya to distract me when Iâm bored. Next time Iâll be a writer, a story-collector, not allowed to be bored.
Chhordi predicts her own demise at every farewell. But not until today, when Iâve bid my own former self goodbye, do I feel prepared to bid Chhordi, too, the final goodbye. Iâm in the mood for forever-goodbyes. Arenât goodbyes the way to grow up?
Chhordi never means to be sentimental at farewells, but she always is, and sheâs made Ma swollen-eyed too. Poor Ma! She lost her mother two years ago, and Chhordi, her favourite aunt, is all wheezy breath and wandering eyes. In the sunshine-yellow taxi I pass my arms around Ma.
We watch a double-decker, ahead of us, veer around street corners, almost overbalancing each time. We watch a cycle-rickshaw-driverâs stick-thin legs straining, carrying uphill a large bare-backed woman.
Ma passes her hand through my hair, feeling the ends. Suddenly palpitating I realise the ends must feel crisp from my daily haircuts. I prepare to defend myself against Maâs reproaches for another illicit haircut. But Ma merely strokes my hair, and I hug her closer, grateful for her silence, grateful for Chhordiâs forgotten rusted old scissors that didnât snap off my hair, that gnawed it off with toothless gums.
On our return flight Iâve graciously granted Mohan the window seat. In the middle seat, under a leaden sky, the cabin-lights dimmed for takeoff, my grownupness takes abrupt leave, like a fake storm, dissolving as quickly as it gathered. I miss Calcutta, though weâre still here; I miss Mumbai though weâve another month there; I miss Maya and Chhordi and Mashi; I miss all the things Iâll never do again; Iâm not ready to bid anything goodbye; Iâll never be ready and Iâm about to cry.
Itâd be awful to cry before Mohan. So I swallow my tears â back down my throat, though thatâs not where they came from â and, to stop them returning, pucker up.
And there, sitting in the plane, deadly quiet as it gathers breath for its takeoff roar â suddenly I can whistle. I realise all these years I was trying wrong. I was exhaling. My whistle, it turns out, is an inhaler. Once Iâve made the air sing instead of wheeze, the rest is easy. I imitate the first music I remember. The mad cuckoo.
First a set of lilting scales. Then a single sweet note of interrogation as the leaden sky glowers. Finally, as we take off into a steady shower, a rising series of interrogatory notes. Ma shushes me, but itâs alright. At last, the rain has come to cool Chhordiâs roof, and downstairs theyâll sleep well tonight.
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